Now that it is pretty much a given that every menu has pork belly on it, it's time to give lamb breast it's moment of glory. This recipe really needs a slow cooker. If you don't have one,then go out and get yourself one. They can be had for for cheap, and have so many uses that they belong in every home. I'll explain some of the other stuff you can do later. Because the initial cooking of the lamb takes a long time, it's best to do a large batch, then freeze it in portion size bags. The joy of this is that you're never more than ten minutes away from the ultimate post pub snack.
Buy as much lamb breast as you can pack into your slow cooker, and cover with a neutral oil. Set the thermostat to the lowest setting, and leave to confit for at least twenty four hours. It might seem counterintuitive to cook a fatty piece of meat in yet more fat, but the slow cooking renders the fat from the meat, leaving you with a delicious by product that you can store in the fridge, covered with a layer of salt.
When the meat is fully cooked,you should be able to push a spoon through it, so very carefully lift from the oil and cool on a wire wrack suspended over a tray. When cool enough to handle simply pull away the meat from the bones and spread on a try, then freeze for ten minutes. This cooling will set the meat and make it easier to deal with. Place your sheet of lamb on a board and roughly chop. At this point the hard work is over. Anything you don't need immediately can be bagged up and frozen. Press the bags flat so that they will defrost in moments in warm water when your feeling frail and in need of a quick and steadying repast.
The sauce is based in the traditional flavours of Sichuanese twice cooked pork, with a couple of modifications.
Equal quantities of Hoi Sin sauce, and fermented broad bean paste (Hong Yu Du Ban)
This will be quite thick, so let it down with soy sauce (ideally Shibanuma 18 month, available from Oisoi) and balsamic vinegar.
Into a very lightly oiled pan or wok, cook as much lamb as you desire over a high flame. Because it is still quite fatty and has a high surface area, it will crisp up and colour very quickly. Off the heat, toss in a dollop of sauce and mix until everything is combined and smelling seriously awesome. This is really too good to put onto toasted triangles of sliced white, but we don't all have an artisan spelt bâtard to hand, though decent toast will thank you for being topped with this delicious concoction. We finish the it with smoked curd cheese, capers and white anchovies, adding a few textures and tastes that complement the lamb.
If this recipe doesn't convince you to go out and get a slow cooker, there are many more possibilities. Eaten a roast chicken? Don't bin the carcasses slow cook it overnight with veg trimmings and you've got the basis of a decent soup or risotto. In fact, for the home cook, a slow cooker is the ideal stockpot, allowing you to make slow simmered brown stocks and soups. I once threw a couple of lobster shells and a tin of tomatoes in my slow cooker overnight, and drank the results for breakfast. That was a good day.
